Reviewed
Red Meat Economics: LP Steak Reviewed
The steakhouse is the dullest kind of restaurant. There’s no surprise in a steakhouse. No shock, no awe. The best things you can hope to […]
Positively 10th Street: Ting Wong Reviewed
I go to Ting Wong for lunch—hiding out at a sticky table along the wall, hot tea and perfect shrimp congee in front of me. […]
Taco Time: Heffe Reviewed
They were taking the Christmas lights down at Heffe on the day I showed up. Everyone was wearing gloves and hats; collars turned up against […]
Cauliflower After Dark: Neuf Reviewed
I was excited when Joncarl Lachman told me his next restaurant was going to be a French/North African concept. A little bit bistro, he said, […]
Where to Drink Right Now: Three Bars Reviewed
Martha 2113 East York Street, Kensington Expectations were high for Martha, the Kensington bar from hospitality veteran Jon Medlinsky. For years he’d been the beer […]
Back to the Future: Aldine Revisited
I have never before been stricken speechless by beets, but I was at Aldine. Big beets—chunks of them cut like kebab meat, that require days […]
The Gravy Train: Coeur Reviewed
The first time I went to Coeur, there was no poutine on the menu, and I was pissed. I mean, this place—opened in September by […]
The Lost World: Papaya Vietnamese Contemporary Tapas Reviewed
On a Sunday night in late November, we weren’t the only table at Papaya Vietnamese Contemporary Tapas, but it was close. My wife and I […]
Southern Comfort: South Reviewed
The first time I had chef Paul Martin’s food, I was standing in the street. Or a parking lot, maybe. Under a tent and the […]
The Queen of Sandwiches: Meltkraft Reviewed
Grilled cheese is the queen of sandwiches. Say what you will about its simplicity, its lack of intrinsic finesse (only rule: don’t burn), but it […]
We Come to Eat Fire: DanDan Reviewed
DanDan on a Friday night is a mess in the best possible way—a riot of people and bags and plates, with servers squeezing through the […]
Veganism for Dummies: Bar Bombon Reviewed
You’ve got to be pretty confident to think about opening a vegan restaurant in a town that already has Vedge in it. That’s kind of […]
The First, Best Time: Stargazy Reviewed
The best time I had at Stargazy was on a rainy afternoon when I was going somewhere else. I hadn’t even been thinking about pies […]
Twice in a Lifetime: Whetstone Tavern Reviewed
Jeremy Nolen—chef at Whetstone, the man behind Brauhaus and Wursthaus Schmitz, lonely local champion of modern German cuisine and a fella who knows an awful […]
Chop Suey and Cheese Curds: Bud & Marilyn’s Reviewed
My problem with Bud & Marilyn’s is that I always want to be drunk before I go. There are reasons. This isn’t me confessing to […]