Philly Mag’s Favorite Long Reads of 2023

Settle in with some great Philadelphia magazine long reads from 2023. / Photo-illustration by Jamie Leary

Every year, we get fifty or so opportunities to publish long stories in the magazine. We debate assignments and word counts and photography and sentence structure, and then, a few weeks later, we do it all again. Because of this, we like to think we have a pretty good idea of what makes for a good longform story. Engaging narrative and characters? A must. Snappy writing? Oh, but of course. Perspective that you can get only from Philadelphia magazine? Well, that’s for you to decide.

Here are 13 of our favorite stories from 2023 (plus a few bonus ones if you’re trying to avoid your family this week).

The Amazing Story of How Philly Cheesesteaks Became Huge in Lahore, Pakistan

Philly’s Steak Sandwich and its namesake offering in the Johar Town neighborhood of Lahore, Pakistan / Photography by Sulman Ali

In recent years, a surprising boom has taken over Pakistan — cheesesteaks. At shops throughout the country the sandwich has found a home among the chaat and bun kebab. College students pack themselves into small shops like Philly’s Steak Sandwich and Café Zouk to taste the creations. YouTube food reviewers bounce from shop to shop indulging in Philly’s favorite son, concoctions that incorporate local flavors into the traditional formula created more than 7,000 miles away.

Kunwar Khuldune Shahid, a Pakistani political journalist, reported the story from Lahore, tracing the sandwich’s arrival decades ago up to its prominence today. What he found was a microcosm of globalization and culinary exploration, all stemming from one South Philly sandwich. Keep reading here.

Philadelphia and the Case of the Disappearing Neighborhood Bars

The neighborhood bar on the corner is becoming a thing of the past. / Illustration by James Boyle

Walk around Frankford or Kingsessing or any other one of the dozens of neighborhoods that make up the city of Philadelphia and you might notice something new: the bars are gone. Little corner spots — a couple dozen seats, cold lager on tap, and a panorama of regulars — have closed up shop at an alarming rate in the city, and it’s not because of noise violations or neighborhood complaints. It’s because of money. Writer Matthew Korfhage traced the demise of the local, finding that as state laws opened up liquor licenses to grocery stores and gas stations over the past decade, giant corporations began gobbling them up.

Korfhage’s story quickly ping-ponged across the city and state, leading to op-eds and finding its way to the desk of politicians in Harrisburg. It’s our most-read print story of the year, a testament to not only the reporting itself, but the outrage of the community. Keep reading here.

The Horny World of Philadelphia’s Adult Rec Leagues

Sparks fly while playing Frisbee? Philly’s adult recreational sports leagues are the new places to find love. / Illustration by Beth Walrond

As part of our How Philly Dates Now feature in our June issue, former food editor Hannah Albertine dove headfirst into the world of Philly’s sexed-up adult sports leagues. She found queer kickball teams, canoodling softball players, and sweaty muay thai fighters, all looking for one thing — love. (Okay, maybe sometimes just sex.) Keep reading here.

How Much Turmoil Can Temple Take?

Photo-illustration by Leticia R. Albano (Wingard: Stuart Goldenberg; bell tower: Raymond Boyd/Getty Images; protester: Associated Press)

In a city of universities, Temple is without a doubt the one that best reflects the city itself. Since its start in 1884, it has strived to serve Philadelphia — all of Philadelphia — by upholding founder Russell Conwell’s guiding principle that there are “acres of diamonds” right here within our borders.

But today, when you think of Temple University, what’s the first thing that comes to mind? Maybe it’s crime on campus, or the tumultuous blink-and-you’ll-miss-it tenure of president Jason Wingard. Perhaps it’s the precipitous enrollment drop — down 23 percent just since 2017. So: What the hell is happening at Temple? Contributing writer David Murrell set out to answer that and came back with a story of crises: no-confidence votes, an isolated, absent president, strikes, a board of trustees with little to no accountability. Keep reading here.

How Kate Scott Went From Outsider to Groundbreaking Voice of the Sixers

Kate Scott / Photograph by Caroline Gutman

When longtime television play-by-play voice of the Sixers Marc Zumoff retired in 2021 after a distinguished career, the team did something rare: It hired a woman, Kate Scott, to take over behind the microphone. Scott became just the second woman to be hired as an NBA team’s play-by-play announcer.

We loved listening to Zumoff call the games. He was a Philly guy, calling a Philly team for Philly fans. But we also really love listening to Scott, who’s had to overcome sexism, homophobia, and a slew of other biases to get where she is.

Contributing editor Emily Goulet, who confesses unapologetically to “knowing nothing about sports,” got to the heart of what makes Scott tick and why she’s just so good at connecting fans to the action. Keep reading here.

The Rise and Fall of Korshak Bagels

Philip Korshak outside of Korshak bagels. / Photograph by Colin Lenton

When Philip Korshak (unexpectedly, unbelievably) shut down his beloved South Philly bagel shop in September, everyone had one question: what? Food critic Jason Sheehan quickly got Korshak on the phone and in an exclusive interview got the inside shmear. Thirteen hour days. No profits. Labor costs. And at the center, a man who refused to change. “A person that stands by their principles — that believes in something and sees it through to its natural conclusion no matter the cost — is rare,” Sheehan writes. “To compromise would mean survival. But it would also mean compromising. And he can’t do that.” Keep reading here.

What the Hell Is Happening With the Mütter Museum?

The Mütter Museum’s controversy reveals the murky and changing ethics of museums that house human remains. / Photo-Illustration by Leticia R. Albano

In our October issue, contributing writer Malcolm Burnley delved into the controversy surrounding the Mütter Museum and its extensive collection of human remains and anatomical specimens, as well as the larger debate within the museum community of whether we should be showcasing such remains in museums at all. Burnley highlighted the tension between educational value and ethical considerations, especially in an era where discussions about racial injustice and colonial legacies have gained prominence.

The controversy isn’t just about the artifacts; it’s about leadership styles, museum culture, and the responsibilities that come with curating such a unique and challenging collection. Keep reading here.

The Semi-Secret Dinner Parties Reimagining Philly’s Restaurant Scene

Dinner at Santé, a supper club hosted inside sommelier Dan Solway’s Bella Vista apartment / Photograph by Paolo Jay Agbay

In a city that consistently takes chances, highlights new voices and cuisines, and reimagines how things are done, it’s perhaps not surprising that your most exciting meal out may not even be in a restaurant these days. Instead, you may be sharing your evening with 20 strangers in a chef’s apartment. These underground dining experiences provide a sense of authenticity, exclusivity and communal dining that traditional restaurants often lack. 

Former food editor Hannah Albertine took us into Philly’s supper-club scene, dining at apartments and basements around town for unforgettable and unexpected meals. “Dishes are conceptualized from a place of freedom, rather than served to appease a crowd,” Albertine writes. “These events are designed to make Philly diners feel like we’re part of the meal’s architecture rather than just sitting pretty amidst it — like we’re friends with the chef, who’s invited us over for dinner, even if that chef doesn’t know us other than from a $75 Venmo transaction.” Keep reading here.

The Philly Suburbs Are Bigger Than Ever — Literally

The Philly suburbs keep expanding. / Illustration by Jamie Leary

What, exactly, do we mean when we say we’re “from” Philly? It’s easy shorthand; it’s easier to say “Philly” than “the Philadelphia metro area,” after all. Real estate editor Sandy Smith traced the recent pandemic-driven expansion of the Philly suburbs, noting that it’s becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish between suburbs of Philadelphia and those of, say, Allentown or Lancaster. The features that once separated cities and their ’burbs from each other — back roads, grassy knolls, cows! — have gone by the wayside. “What were once distinct and separate cities and regions have grown into one another, and they now compete for land, businesses, houses and loyalties in a way they didn’t before,” writes Smith. Keep reading here.

Other States Have Cool License Plates. Why Can’t Pennsylvania?

Why are Pennsylvania’s license plates so … blah? / Illustration by Jamie Leary / Background image by Semyon Borisov via Unsplash

It’s been 24 years since Pennsylvania updated its license plate. Before that, we had “You’ve got a friend in Pennsylvania” — a warm nod to our Quaker roots. It was still yellow and blue, but it didn’t look like the old Visa card we’re stuck with now. Contributing editor Christine Speer Lejeune delved into the creative (we use that word liberally) process behind Pennsylvania’s plates as she advocated for a refresh. Governor Shapiro, it’s time for a change. We owe it to back-seat road-tripping kids everywhere. Keep reading here.

The Joy of Burning It All Down: Alexandra Holt’s Insurgent Experiment in Fine Dining

Dessert at Roxanne (house-made chocolate with hazelnut, mandarinquat and edible money) is chef Alexandra Holt’s comment on the ethics of the chocolate industry. / Photograph by Rebecca McAlpin

Alexandra Holt’s Bella Vista restaurant, Roxanne, is one of the hardest reservations to score in the city right now. Part of that is because her spot operates unlike any restaurant you’ve ever set foot in. It’s a one-woman show from soup to nuts, and her daring, outlandish food is an idiosyncratic extension of her incredible journey and a rejection of how fine dining has always worked. Food critic Jason Sheehan tells the story of her deeply personal and exceptionally irreverent restaurant. Keep reading here.

Leslie Richards’s Bold Vision for a Better SEPTA

Leslie Richards at the 13th Street trolley station / Photograph by Gene Smirnov

Leslie Richards took over the role of SEPTA general manager just months before the pandemic, and recognized the broader societal implications of a public transportation system that not only works, but works well. “I firmly believe the healthier the public transportation system is in a metropolitan area, the healthier the metropolitan area is,” she told contributing writer Tom McGrath this past summer. That means not only making sure the buses run on time, but dealing with the city’s larger issues, like addiction and an unhoused population with an insufficient safety net. “This is the business model now,” Richards says. “If they don’t see us helping people and doing the best we can, who’s going to get on us?” McGrath peels back the curtain on the system that everyone loves to hate on, and reveals a bold leader and a SEPTA poised for exciting transformations. Keep reading here.

Why Are Philly Brands Flocking to the Suburbs?

Philly brands like Boyds, Di Bruno’s and La Colombe are opening Main Line outposts. / Illustration by Hawk Krall

Boyd’s. DiBruno Brothers. HipCityVeg. Changes in work and living patterns have prompted brands long associated with the city to set up shop on the Main Line. That’s great for the ’burbs, but what’s it mean for the city? Real estate editor Sandy Smith explored just that in the February issue. Keep reading here.

Still looking for more? Here’s the best of the rest! 

Like sports? Try Pete Croatto’s behind-the-scenes oral history of the 76ers’ 1983 championship. How about the environment? David Murrell took us down the Shore to explore the battle over wind energy. Art lover? Try Sarah Jordan’s look at the turmoil at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Just plain hate the PPA? You’re not alone, as features editor Bradford Pearson found out in a profile of the agency’s new leader. Check out our full 2023 longform archive here.