A Philadelphian’s Guide to Paris in the Fall
Plan the getaway of your dreams, with new experiences — many thanks to the Olympics — art exhibitions, and plenty of pastries to enjoy along the way.
Say oui to Paris this fall. / Photograph via Getty Images
Paris may always be a good idea, but this fall — when the Olympic-size crowds have cleared out but the city still buzzes with its signature joie de vivre — it’s especially so. And it’s relatively easy to get there from the Philly area: American runs a daily nonstop flight from PHL to Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), and AirFrance has a daily direct flight from Newark Liberty (EWR) to CDG. Below, everything else you need to know to plan the getaway of your dreams, with new experiences, art exhibitions, and plenty of pastries to enjoy along the way.
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District Delights: Arrondissements | Tips From the Experts | What to Do in Paris Right Now | Un Petit Pastry Crawl
District Delights
With 20 different, distinct arrondissements — a.k.a. districts — Paris has something for everyone. Here’s where to stay and play, depending on your travel style.
1st arrondissement
The Pyramid entrance of the Louvre / Photograph by John Kellerman/Alamay Stock Photo
Best for: First-timers
Immerse yourself in the heart of the city, amid some of its top historical and cultural landmarks. The 1st arrondissement — a central stretch of the Right Bank along the Seine, plus the western end of Île de la Cité — is home to the Tuileries Garden, the Gothic chapel Sainte-Chapelle, and the Louvre. It’s impossible to take in the 35,000 displayed works in a day, so book a tour to catch a glimpse of pieces like da Vinci’s Mona Lisa amid throngs of other spectators. Until September 16th, see “Olympism,” an exhibition on the origins of the modern Olympic Games.
Steps from the Louvre, the Bourse de Commerce — Pinault Collection houses temporary exhibitions like “Carte Blanche to Kimsooja,” an installation with mirrors covering the floors under the dramatic rotunda. At the Musée de l’Orangerie, sit in an oval room surrounded by a series of Monet’s Water Lilies, massive paintings the artist gifted the city after the armistice of November 11, 1918, as a symbol of peace.
Espadon chef Eugénie Béziat preparing a dish / Photograph courtesy of Ritz Paris
Get a taste of Parisian glamour with a splashy night out at the Ritz Paris. The storied hotel in Place Vendôme has hosted luminaries like Marcel Proust. Start with a cocktail — Bar Hemingway, named for another regular, is a cozy haunt for a dry martini, but we’re partial to the astrology-themed drinks at the Ritz Bar. Afterward, head to Espadon, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, for dinner on the terrace.
Round out your experience by staying at Le Meurice (rooms from $1,876), which occupies a prime position across from the Tuileries. The public park has its own Olympic history: It was the site of the fencing competitions in the 1900 Games.
6th arrondissement
A bustling street in the Latin Quarter of Paris / Photograph by Alexander Spatari/Getty Images
Best for: Future expats
Set along the southern bank of the Seine in the heart of the Rive Gauche (the Left Bank), the 6th brims with sidewalk cafes, boutiques, and a quintessential charm that once also captivated artists and literary figures like Jean-Paul Sartre and Gertrude Stein. Soak it all up from a sidewalk table (preferably with an aperitif and the love of your life — this place oozes romance) at Café de Flore, where efficient waiters have been serving classic French fare since the 1880s.
For a bit less of a scene, try Chez Nous, a tiny pocket of a wine bar specializing in small-producer selections, or snag a stool at Freddy’s, a boisterous bar à vin with a long by-the-glass list.
The Faune Dansant statue by Eugène-Louise Lequesne in the Luxembourg Garden / Photograph by Kim Rogerson/Getty Images
Make your home base Relais Christine (rooms from $730). The 48-room Relais & Chateaux property, with its ivy-covered exterior and plush suites decked in velvet and toile, feels like staying at the home of your impeccably stylish Parisian friend, who also happens to live a short walk from the Luxembourg Garden. The urban oasis of tree-lined pathways, manicured gardens, and fountains also has a duck pond where children launch vintage toy sailboats. (Those are available to rent.)
Spend at least one afternoon shopping for souvenirs at boutiques like Sessùn for a wardrobe that channels the effortlessly chic French aesthetic, Citypharma for a haul of Parisian drugstore beauty products, and Monoprix, the utilitarian grocery store chain that sells some of the cutest kids’ clothing around. And pick up some gifts for your friends — if you ever return home.
16th arrondissement
A Shangri-La Paris suite / Photograph courtesy of Shangri-La Paris
Best for: Très chic travelers
Just across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, this westernmost arrondissement is home to elegant residential streets as well as a trove of museums, galleries, and green spaces.
Check in to Shangri-La Paris (rooms from $1,500). The former residence of Prince Roland Bonaparte is the closest Palace hotel (an official French distinction signifying a step up from five-star) to the Eiffel Tower, which means you can take in spectacular views from your room — and from a breakfast table in the private garden.
Break from sightseeing with a dip in the property’s tranquil indoor pool, and, later, book a table at Shang Palace. The only Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in Paris serves Cantonese classics made with local ingredients.
Fondation Louis Vuitton / Photograph by Dominique Charriau/WireImage/Getty Images
For a nearby culture fix, explore the cutting-edge contemporary art exhibitions at the sprawling Palais de Tokyo and the museum of fashion, Palais Galliera, across the street. Don’t miss “Fashion on the Move,” the Olympics-themed exhibition with 300 historical sportswear garments, on view until January 2025. The Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton is a bit farther afield, but the futuristic metallic marvel is well worth the trek, with pop and expressionist art in its 20th- and 21st-century collections.
Visiting on a Wednesday or Saturday? Head to the open-air Pont de l’Alma Market and peruse the stalls of fruit, cut flowers, escargots, and fresh bread. Then stroll to the Place du Trocadéro, the site of the Paris Olympics’ opening ceremony, for another picture-perfect view of the tower.
Tips From the Experts
Lindsey Tramuta
Fort Washington native, Paris-based journalist, and author of The New Paris and The New Parisienne
“I always recommend spending time in the Buttes Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement, one of the city’s largest parks, built on a former quarry. There are grottoes, a waterfall, hills, and loads of locals picnicking or having drinks at Le Rosa Bonheur or Le Pavillon Puebla.”
Zoë Petit
Paris tour guide specializing in family travel
“If you’re looking for a stunning museum that is also kid-friendly, head to the Petit Palais. It’s located in the heart of Paris, yet rarely crowded. It’s also free. End your visit with a coffee and chocolate cake at the gorgeous cafe in the museum gardens, where the kids can run off some steam.”
What to Do in Paris Right Now
Photograph by Matteus Silva
Say oui! to all that’s new in the city.
Ride a Bike
To make it easier for Olympic spectators to get to various competition venues, the city added thousands of new bike parking spaces and roughly 200 miles of routes that will remain open permanently. Rent a mechanical or electric bike from Vélib, Paris’s bike-share program.
Swim in the Seine
Thanks to Herculean efforts, athletes floated down a cleaner Seine during the Olympics opening ceremony. In 2025, the city hopes to open three swimming areas in the river, but for now, take a dip in Piscine Joséphine, in the 13th. After, see a show at Le Petit Bain, the floating concert venue next door.
Return to Notre Dame
The cathedral is set to reopen in December, five years after it was damaged in a fire. Before then, visitors can view elements of the restoration via “Notre-Dame de Paris: At the Heart of the Worksite,” a subterranean exhibition located under the cathedral’s forecourt.
Un Petit Pastry Crawl
Your map to the best pastries in Paris / Illustration by Kati Lacker
Madeleines, mille-feuilles, macarons — plan a trek to taste them all!
1. Butterfly Pâtisserie
Start at the Hôtel de Crillon, just north of the Place de la Concorde, where the Rosewood property’s pastry chef, Matthieu Carlin, whips up bright and delicate sweets like a classic lemon tart topped with a cloud of meringue mousse.
2. Ritz Le Comptoir
There was a time you could get your hands on one of François Perret’s pastries only in the hotel’s restaurant or tea salon, but now the award-winning chef’s creations are available to stay or go in this stand-alone shop. Get the mille-feuille, with layers of cream and caramel piped into crispy pastry and topped with pecans, and a box of Perret’s filled madeleines, in flavors like passion fruit and chocolate.
3. Pierre Hermé
Peruse the jewel-toned macarons — the green pistachio and lavender cassis are among our favorites. But don’t skip the soft pink Ispahan, a signature flavor the decorated namesake pastry chef is known for, combining rose, lychee, and raspberry.
4. Cédric Grolet
The acclaimed pastry chef (with a bigger Instagram following than Jason Kelce) is best known for his precise, hyper-realistic desserts crafted to look like fruit, flowers, and even a Rubik’s Cube. Try the Vanilla Flower, with layers of cookie crust and cream, and pick up one of his perfect croissants while you’re there.
5. Fou de Pâtisserie
This brilliant concept shop curates a selection of the best pastries from the city’s award-winning chefs and up-and-comers. The offerings range from exquisite fruit tarts to intense chocolate confections. Take note: They change often.
6. Maison Aleph
At pastry chef Myriam Sabet’s pretty shop in the Marais, find sweets that marry French techniques with Middle Eastern ingredients and flavors (think orange blossom and cardamom). Snag one of each of her signature nests — bite-size kadaïf topped with fruit preserves and flavored whipped cream.
Published as “City of Light” in the September 2024 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
