Weekending in Neversink, New York
Get a renewed zest for life at a renovated woodland wellness retreat in the Catskills.
Hemlock Neversink’s exterior / Photograph by Bernardo Mancebo
Is the daily grind wearing you down? A scenic three-and-a-half-hour drive north to Neversink, a picture-perfect mountain town in New York’s Catskills, might be the cure. Whether you’re seeking a total reset or simply looking for a little relaxation, it’s impossible to wrap up your stay amid the region’s seemingly endless fall foliage without feeling like a reinvigorated version of yourself.
Where to stay
Originally opened as a health spa in the 1970s, Hemlock Neversink (rooms from $399) recently underwent a massive renovation to its entire property. The 230-acre campus is located just past the beautiful Neversink Reservoir, and feels a bit like an upscale summer camp: Expect an earthy color palette; locally crafted blankets and sustainable bedding; and the constant presence of the natural world thanks to the sunny relaxation room, expansive windows, and indoor/outdoor areas.
Where to eat
A dish from Bittersweet / Photograph by Clay Banks
Breakfasting on the patio at Bittersweet, the on-site restaurant, is a delight — particularly in the autumn, when the hills are ablaze with color. But dinner is transformative. The multicourse prix-fixe menus are seasonal and plant-forward (though fish, poultry, and meat options are available), with lineups like oysters topped with chamomile and chili oil, skirt steak with a side of charred chicory, and olive oil-drizzled chocolate mousse. And if you feel peckish between meals, pop by the kitchen for daily rotating snacks.
What to do
The pool at Hemlock Neversink’s Spa House / Photograph by Lawrence Braun
Book the two-hour Detoxifying Waters Ritual — a full-body treatment that includes an exfoliating scrub, a clay wrap, and a lavish soak followed by a deep-tissue massage. It’s among the many experiences offered at Hemlock’s Spa House, with its 12 treatment rooms, three saunas, a gym facing the meadow, an indoor pool, and a hot tub. Follow that up with something from the menu of activities offered on site, such as hiking with goats on Hemlock’s more than five miles of private trails.
The Can’t Miss List
1. Join a local honey sommelier for a honey- and tea-tasting course.
2. Sign up for a night of gazing at planets and stars, aided by an expert astronomy guide.
3. Take a half-hour drive over to the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts — built on the site of the 1969 Woodstock festival — for a tour of the museum.
4. Sip hot drinks by the firepit, where nightly bonfires are held.
5. Check out the property’s more-than-70-year-old apple orchard. It’s one of the goats’ favorite spots to frolic.
Published as “Jaunt: Weekending in … Neversink, New York” in the October 2024 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
