Weekending in Emerald Isle, North Carolina
Find outdoor adventures and “dock-to-dish” dining in this gem on the Crystal Coast.
Fort Macon State Park in Atlantic Beach, North Carolina / Photograph courtesy of North Carolina’s Crystal Coast
Beach vacations were never really my thing. I’m the kind of traveler who seeks out cultural side quests to historic sites and places where I can get a taste of the cuisine. But Emerald Isle on North Carolina’s Crystal Coast — a.k.a. the Southern Outer Banks — strikes the right balance of excitement and relaxation. It’s an eight-and-a-half-hour drive from Center City, but you’ll be rewarded with access to islands inhabited by wild horses, restaurants serving local bounty, and much more along the region’s 85-mile stretch of coastline.
Where to stay
Families who want to spend their days swimming in blue-green waters and lounging on the sand should rent a beach house. Bluewater Vacation Rental (houses from $1,000) has everything from one-bedroom condos to 10-bedroom mansions, many of which are beachfront. But if all you need is a place to take a break between activities, the Oceanview Inn (rooms from $150) provides a comfortable place to rest and is still only 250 yards from the beach.
Where to eat
A dish at Circa81 / Photograph courtesy of Circa81
Chef Clarke Merrell was born and raised in the area and, thanks to the relationships he’s built with local food purveyors, is leading the region’s “dock-to-dish” dining philosophy. Head to Circa81, his restaurant in Morehead City, for lunch or dinner: The tapas menu invites you to savor the catch of the day (think seared scallops). For a more casual, homey taste of Southern comfort, head to The Trading Post in Emerald Isle, where the neighborhood favorite is the shrimp and grits.
What to do
Wild horses on the coast of Emerald Isle / Photograph courtesy of North Carolina’s Crystal Coast
Kayak out to the Rachel Carson Reserve with Beaufort Paddle to find wild horses roaming the beaches. And if you’re visiting in 2025, embark on the Crystal Coast Star Party Starlight Cruise from Harkers Island to Cape Lookout, declared an International Dark Sky Park in 2021 for its minimal light pollution. The night skies are so clear you can see the Milky Way from midnight to 5 a.m. during the summer months.
The Can’t Miss List
1. Discover the Crystal Coast’s spooky side via a Beaufort Ghost Walk, run by Port City Tour Company. You’ll hear stories of pirates and local haunted houses.
2. Sample premium Osetra caviar and sturgeon straight from the source on a jaunt to Marshallberg Caviar Farm.
3. Master your oyster-shucking technique while tasting the Crystal Coast’s “merroir” with an Oysters Carolina excursion.
4. Hike through dunes and tree tunnels of southern live oak at Fort Macon State Park.
5. Meet sea turtles and watch sharks being fed during a behind-the-scenes tour at the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores.
Published as “Jaunt: Weekending in … Emerald Isle, North Carolina” in the September 2024 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
