Weekending in Louisville
Come for the whiskey. Stay to discover the rest of the Gateway to the South.
Downtown Louisville / Photograph courtesy of Go To Louisville
It was 9:05 a.m., and I was leaning over Limestone Branch Distillery’s gurgling mash tun when I remembered that I hadn’t eaten breakfast yet. At master distiller Stephen Beam’s suggestion, I remedied that, reaching in and pinching a bit of corn mash into my mouth. The slightly alcoholic porridge didn’t sate my hunger, but it did serve as a reminder: When you come to Louisville (via a two-hour direct flight from PHL), you’re probably gonna have some whiskey. Maybe even at breakfast.
Where to stay
The mini mart (and secret bar) at Hotel Genevieve / Photograph by Genevieve Garruppo
The Hotel Genevieve (rooms from $155) sits outside downtown Louisville and is an ideal home base from which to explore the neighborhood’s bars and distilleries. Named after the region’s Ste. Genevieve limestone — which gives Kentucky bourbon its distinct taste — the hotel is all funk and light. Nowhere is this more evident than in its mini mart, which, if you look closely enough, houses the secret Lucky Penny bar behind the unmarked door. Folks seeking more central digs should try the Louisville Marriott Downtown (rooms from $235), which has a great lobby bar and expansive views.
Where to eat
Shrimp dumplings from Nami / Photograph by Sarah Babcock
Edward Lee has been a staple of the city’s culinary scene, and his new venture, Nami, is an ode to his Korean roots. Grill your gochujang-marinated skirt steak tableside, or let the kitchen do the work for you. Either way, don’t pass up the dukbokki — rice cakes stir-fried with snow peas, mushrooms and a fiery sauce. Need a pre-dinner snack? Walk down the block and snag a chocolate chip cookie from Please & Thank You.
What to do
Michter’s Distillery
in Louisville, Kentucky / Photograph courtesy of Michter’s Distillery
Were you worried we’d forget to talk about bourbon? For nostalgia, take a tour of Michter’s Distillery, which sits right on the city’s famed Whiskey Row. (Long-time tipplers will remember Michter’s was originally a Pennsylvania distillery before being revived in Kentucky.) Many of the larger distillers sit outside the city, so if you have a car, point it south to the aforementioned Limestone Branch or east to Buffalo Trace. Each is about an hour’s drive. And be sure to check out the city’s annual Bourbon Classic, a world-class festival that features cocktail challenges, educational workshops, and a chance to taste some of the rarest bourbons in the world.
The Can’t Miss List
1. Even if you can’t visit during horse-racing season — April through June — tour Churchill Downs and its Kentucky Derby Museum. (The 150th running of the derby is May 4th.)
2. Walk across the Big Four Bridge, a former railroad span that now serves as a pedestrian bridge above the Ohio River.
3. After the sun sets, head to the dance club Play to see a drag performance.
4. Wander Old Louisville to ogle 40 blocks of Victorian homes — the largest concentration in the United States.
5. Visit the Muhammad Ali Center, which honors the Louisville native’s boxing and political lives.
Published as “Jaunt: Weekending in … Louisville” in the May 2024 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
