An Homage to Fromage: Philly’s Ultimate Cheese Lover’s Guide

Anyone who has ever attended the Pennsylvania Farm Show knows that dairy is big business in the Keystone State. With more than 500,000 cows producing upward of 10.2 billion pounds of milk per year, it’s no wonder the commonwealth ranks seventh in the nation for milk production. So where does all that dairy go aside from the annual butter sculpture competition? Well, a good portion is made into cheese, a product that not only preserves milk but also captures the terroir of Pennsylvania’s countryside. Local cheesemakers wrangle wild strains of microbial magic to transform milk from grass-fed cows (and goats and sheep!) into creamy treats that, scientifically speaking, can happen only right here, right now. And lucky for us in Philadelphia, we get to have a taste.

10 Un-Brie-Lievable Philly-Area Cheese Makers and Mongers

From small-batch creameries in the countryside to shops offering rare wheels of traditional European styles here’s where to upgrade your board. Keep reading …

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Board Members

Want to build a beautiful spread for your next gathering? Here’s how to arrange all those slices and wedges.

1. “Repeat little patterns of items in multiple places throughout your board (such as a cluster of grapes, blackberries, and straw­berries). Our eyes are naturally drawn to patterns, so this makes for an aesthetically pleasing board.” — Laura Rock, owner, From Marjorie

2. “Avoid the cheese touch! Especially for a smaller charcuterie board, make sure that each cheese has its own space. They are the stars of the show and deserve their own stage.” — Emily Keane, owner, the Board Housewife 

3. “Build a harmonious flavor profile by adding premium cured meats and thoughtful accompaniments, like hard salami, capicola, or prosciutto; dried fruits; and smoked almonds.” — Robyn Baxter, owner, JLux Charcuterie

4. “Don’t be afraid to experiment with cheeses that are new to you or seasonal.”­ — Lauren­ Laigaie, owner, Haddonfield on Board

5. “Have fun with it! Treat your charcuterie board like a puzzle, and trust the process as you’re building.” — Farah Vogel, co-owner, Charcuterie Chic

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Expert Cheese Pairings

Tenaya Darlington, a Germantown-based author, fromage educator, and tour guide (she’s heading to the Netherlands and Belgium this spring), has some drink pairings for you.

Chèvre and …

Green Tea • Sencha is a clean, bright, and grassy green tea that goes well with fresh goat cheese. Spring is goat cheese season — the animals are eating young grasses and the first flower buds, which adds sweetness to the milk. Try: Goat Rodeo Farm & Dairy’s fresh chèvre

A Triple-crème and …

A French 75 • A French 75 has a lemon accent. It’s sparkling, and it’s great with rich, creamy cheeses. Add a baguette, lavender honey, and vegetables for brunch or happy hour. Try: Valley Milkhouse’s Honey

Bell Cheddar and …

An IPA • IPAs are classically bitter. Aged cheddars have a bitter quality. And bitter things soften one another. The rule of thumb is this: The more aged the cheddar, the more hoppy the beer. Try: Shelburne Farms’ cheddar

Sheep’s Milk Cheese and …

Red Wine • If you have a bold red, like a Barbera d’Asti from Northern Italy, the cheese will soften the tannins. Sheep’s milk is the richest of the milks (fattier than goat’s or cow’s milk), and cheese made from it can stand up to the tannins. Try: Valley Shepherd Creamery’s­ Oldwick Shepherd

Aged gouda and …

Coffee • In the Netherlands, people will drink a cup of coffee and eat a hunk of Gouda. It’s a terrific pairing, because aged Gouda has a toffee-like note. For me, the perfect pairing would be a flat white or macchiato, where you’re getting intense flavor. Make sure to have foam on the coffee too. Try: L’Amuse Signature Gouda

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Is My Wedge Still Good?

Julia Fox-Birnbaum, owner of the Philly Cheese School in Bella Vista, shares her tips.

To keep or not to keep? That’s the question many of us ask when that fancy fro­mage we’ve been saving smells funkier than we remember. But don’t just throw it away. Chances are it still has a bit more shelf life left in it. “The story is about milk preservation, and so your cheese wants to hang out longer than we’ve been taught,” says Fox-Birnbaum.

Mold might seem like a sign that your curd is done for, but according to Fox-Birnbaum, it depends on what kind. “Some molds have evolved to live on cheese,” she says, adding that white, green, and blue molds are fine. Just cut off the mold and serve. But if you ever see pink, red, or black, throw that wedge in the trash.

There are some forms of spoilage you can’t come back from, like temperature abuse. This happens when a wedge is taken in and out of the fridge too much, causing the butterfat to seep out of the curd and leaving behind dry cheese coated in an oily residue. She does recommend storing your cheese in the fridge, but don’t be afraid to let it sit out. In fact, most varieties are best served at room temperature and can last several hours on the counter.

When it’s time to put your cheese away, Fox-Birnbaum recommends wrapping it in Formaticum’s specialty storage paper. It minimizes the exposed surface area, stopping rogue spores from wreaking havoc while also allowing your pungent treat to breathe. “It’s alive,” she explains. “There are microbes in there that want to be living happy lives.”

Published as “An Homage to Fromage” in the April 2025 issue of Philadelphia magazine.