Forîn Is Getting a New Head Chef, and He’s Changing the Menu

Ariel Tobing, Forîn’s new head chef / Photograph by Mike Prince

Between their lifestyle hub on Coral Street and their all-day cafe on Frankford Avenue, Forîn is always up to something new — and that’s the point. Their whole mission is to be that cool friend who introduces us to hip designer clothing, “worldly tunes” (check out their Spotify playlist), and food and wine from around the world. Even their evening residency program, which previously featured Tabachoy and is now spotlighting Liz Grothe’s Couch Cafe, has been a platform for diners to get acquainted with Philly’s rising chefs.

That’s why Forîn’s next move works so well with their whole brand: hiring up-and-coming talent Ariel Tobing to be their new head chef. And starting March 14th from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., as his first order of business, he is launching a new menu.

Tobing, who has been working at Forîn’s second location since it opened in February 2023, is shifting the focus of the menu toward Southeast Asian and East Asian cuisines. Many of the new dishes come from the 29-year-old chef’s personal life, from growing up as an Indonesian American kid in suburban Delaware to his time working at Poi Dog and Musi.

You’ll still be able to get morning staples like the egg and cheese breakfast sandwich served on Lost Bread Co.’s milk buns, but now you can get a glazed spam version, along with a matcha haupia (a Hawaiian coconut pudding), both of which are throwbacks to Poi Dog. Other dishes on the menu are inspired by Tobing’s childhood comforts, including the kecap manis-braised chicken over turmeric rice and the spiced coconut salad.

Clockwise from top: Kecap manis-braised chicken over turmeric rice; matcha haupia; chicken ginger soup. / Photograph by Mike Prince

It’s a big change, but he’s taking a subtle approach. “We’re keeping it simple,” Tobing says, explaining that a lot of the dishes he’s introducing are not overly complex. That’s because he has to strike a balance between developing recipes to work within the constraints of a cafe kitchen, introducing people to something new while making it accessible, and incorporating flavors that work in tandem with Forîn’s coffee offerings while also keeping in mind how customers are using the space. “It is a cafe, so I can’t be cooking super pungent dishes for six hours while people sit and work and try to enjoy a cup of coffee,” Tobing says.

His approach is minimalistic, but he enjoys the challenge of achieving a full depth of flavor with as few ingredients as possible. Take his chicken ginger soup, for example. Though rich and hearty, it’s simply a chicken bone broth poured over scallion ginger oil and garnished with some green onions. “I kept it pretty bare bones, but I’m excited to show people that you can get really good results from a simple recipe,” Tobing says.

The hope is that by making the food comforting, approachable, and flavorful, people will make Forîn part of their routine. “The food doesn’t have to be overly complicated to make an impact,” Tobing says. “I hope people get attached to these dishes enough that they come in a couple times a week, and Forîn becomes a kind of second home to them.”