First Look: La Casa De Tu Madre

Just when you thought you were done with Day of the Dead skulls for the year, La Casa de tu Madre opened at Eighth and Fitzwater.

Luchador masks, sombreros, sherbet-hued paint colors, and yes, beautiful painted skulls are some of the new touches that Jason Evenchik and his team have used to transform the dark space that was Growlers into a technicolor explosion of all things Mexican.

But fear not, because despite the facelift, the space is as drinking-friendly as it ever was. Micheladas and margaritas abound, including two frozen ones, as well as a tequila heavy cocktail menu. The Roberto Royo, a twist on a Rob Roy, swaps out scotch for smoky mezcal, and the La Yerba pairs Luxardo with blanco tequila, lime, agave, and fresh cilantro to yield a pale green cooler without the heavy sweetness of most margs.

The menu, by chef Michael Thomas, is largely mex, with a little tex thrown in in the form of nachos, California-Style burritos, and tacos “Americano,” hard shells stuffed with ground beef, lettuce, cheese, and pico di gallo. Besides these, the selection is legit in its format and flavors.

Shrimp Aguachiles is remniscent of cevice; cool shrimp marinated in sangrita, piled with red onion, jalapeño, and sliced avocado into a cool salad. There’s also a Oaxaca and Jack cheese quesadilla with poblano peppers and mushrooms. Flautas de papa are corn tortillas rolled around potato, cheese sauced in salsa verde and lime crema. Mexican style tacos hold down the classics, as of the four different preparations of homey enchiladas with mole that Thomas says meets the approval of his Mexican cooks.

On the sweet side of things? Fried ice cream and thin, crispy churros tossed in cinnamon and bittersweet Mexican chocolate to dip them in. There’s brunch, there’s happy hour (weekdays from five until seven) and a robust selection of easy drinking beers to keep you busy until your mama calls you to come home.

La Casa De Tu Madre [f8b8z]