Sticks and Stones Won’t Hurt You

Brian Freedman really likes the beer list at East Passyunk’s Sticks and Stones. He also calls the two-month old spot pleasant at least twice. The food, well, the results are as all over the place as the multi-national inspirations.

The fish taco on offer was nearly inedible, the mahi mahi’s aroma uncomfortably fish-funky, its texture mushy. The appealing intensity of the accompanying pico de gallo cut this a bit, but not enough.

But then there were the dishes I would go back for. Turkey meatloaf comforted and excited at the same time, two velvety slices whose own deep poultry character found satisfying, familiar counterparts in the sweet-tangy barbecue sauce with an unexpected Asian personality. Paired with a side of mashed sweet potatoes, it brought to mind a sort of modern Rockwellian rendition of Thanksgiving, minus the vaguely creepy uncle staring out from the corner of the painting.

Stellar Suds at E. Passyunk’s Sticks and Stones [Philadelphia Weekly]