‘True Value in Artistry of Cooking’ at JG Domestic
Craig LaBan files what we refer to at Foobooz World Headquarters as a LaBoner, awarding three very enthusiastic bells to Jose Garces’ Cira Centre restaurant, JG Domestic.
… this kitchen is flexing its muscle through vivid seasonal flavors drawn from across the land, and, as a result, more spontaneity than most any other Garces restaurant. The brick-oven flatbread delivered an earthy whiff of Oregon truffles and chanterelles scattered over creamy white asparagus béchamel piqued with Jasper Hill cheddar. Tiny croquettes made from Lancaster sugar pumpkins burst inside the mouth like crispy capsules of warm squash soup. Little mason jars of crudité showcased winter produce at its most precious moment of crunch – tiny florettes of gold and purple cauliflower, blush-tipped radishes, baby turnips and carrots – illuminated with California olive oil and a tarragon froth of Green Goddess.
Three bells – Excellent
JG Domestic a showcase for artisan American ingredients [Inquirer]
JG Domestic [Official Site]