Pleasing the Eye and Tongue

Adam Erace praises the cooking of new chef Restaurant M’s new chef, Michael Caspi.

You know on Project Runway, when they talk about making clothes look expensive? That’s what Caspi does with food. Each plate is a composition, and though they can get a little busy, I can’t help but admire the intricate work each represents. The tamarind-lacquered short ribs could have done without one component, but which? Keep the stiletto carrots that added a bit of crunch to the plate. And definitely keep the plank of smoky bacon “melba” propped up on the rib like a see-saw.

M, M, Good [City Paper]
Restaurant M [Official Site]