Happy Days at Happy Rooster
Brian Freedman calls the Happy Rooster’s latest incarnation “newly spectacular.”
The kitchen here, under the relatively new direction of Chef Jason Goodenough, fares just as well with more difficult, labor-intensive preparations. Poached-then-grilled baby Spanish octopus was visually stunning, the tentacles vogueing as if posing for a movie poster. The flavors ran the gamut from the saline funk of olives and capers to the sweet concentration of a tomato compote to the orange and lemon zest in a citrus vinaigrette that framed it all without calling undue attention to itself.
Happy Rooster [Philadelphia Weekly]
