3 Bells for Amis

Craig LaBan wasn’t convinced while dining at Amis during an early scouting mission but when it was time for a formal review, LaBan found Marc Vetri’s most casual restaurant yet was lights out.

Most memorable for me, though, was this kitchen’s knack for transforming the mundane classic into the sublime with a key ingredient or technique upgrade – the use of tangy buffalo’s-milk ricotta inside the delicate ravioli, for example; or the house sausage redolent with a zesty punch of fennel pollen; or the pounded leg of sage-infused guinea hen that made for an extraordinary saltimbocca beneath a mushroom confetti of royal trumpets shaved into earthy noodles.

The lamb scattered with cubed potatoes was the height of minimalism on a plate, but the meat – brined for three days, roasted, then crisped on the plancha – is profoundly good. The mixed seafood grill receives far less preparation, but that’s the point: Pristine seafood grilled to delicate perfection needs little more than good olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and parsley to be complete.

3 Bells – Excellent

Amis [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Amis [Official Site]