Bindi

Elisa Ludwig checks out Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s Bindi and finds it a bit more tentative, especially when compared to the pair’s Lolita across the street.

Still, there are plenty of good ideas at work. Among the most memorable is something you would never see in India: short ribs. Hindu dietary preferences aside, it’s a luscious concoction, the beef braised to tangy, sweet disintegration, the sauce seeping into chunks of potato, with fine shreds of carrot kosambri salad adding cool crunch and slivers of pickled onions cutting the richness with vinegar tang.

Curried Away [City Paper]