Grits Worth Kissing

Kirsten is involved in other work so we’ll skip the gushing over Rick Nichols Sunday Inky column although it is as usual excellent writing. Today Nichols goes in depth with how Erin O’Shea makes great grits at Marigold Kitchen.

So Marigold regulars who may have ordered sweetbreads with crispy chicken skin and tahini, or juicy barramundi fish with creamy apple and celery-root puree as recently as Christmas, need to radically adjust their compass headings.

And not just for the land of cotton: What O’Shea is doing with Southern fare – not playing to type, or country, or soul – is on the order of what Susanna Foo did with Chinese; kept the accent and pantry, but upended the predictable feel, technique and presentation.

They will serve no grits before their time [Philadelphia Inquirer]