Reviews
Buying Cool: Wm. Mulherin’s Sons Reviewed
Wm. Mulherin’s Sons is the best-smelling restaurant I’ve been to all year. It’s pretty, sure. Big, new, shiny, polished, fitted out with rich woods, artisan […]
The Mathematics of Sandwiches: Stove & Tap Reviewed
On a Sunday night, Stove & Tap is busy. Not full, but I’m not really sure there would ever be enough people dining out in […]
The Revisit: Opa
When Opa first opened, it was loud, brash, crowded and dull. The kitchen seemed incapable of dependably executing the most basic dishes. The cooks were […]
What Lies Beneath: Double Knot Reviewed
Breakfast, 9:30 a.m. // Like Garfield and 10,000 novelty t-shirts, I don’t do mornings. Particularly not ones that haven’t snuck up on me accidentally—the sun […]
Learning Curve: Sate Kampar Reviewed
This is what you do. You go to Sate Kampar on a first date. You save it for someone special—for when Tinder, the phone psychic, […]
Tunnel of Love and Dumplings: Tom’s Dim Sum Reviewed
There are a lot of restaurants in this town that I go to because it’s my job. There are some I find myself in because […]
Future Imperfect: SuGa Reviewed
I love the smell of SuGa. The dim warmth of it. The banquette tables that run along the wall opposite the bar, in the front […]
Seeds and Stems: Hungry Pigeon Reviewed
The first time I went to Scott Schroeder’s new restaurant, Hungry Pigeon, I showed up for breakfast and liked it so much, I stayed for […]
High-Gloss Rustic: A Mano Reviewed
In the back, chef Michael Millon is dancing. Not dancing-dancing (because that would be weird), but that’s what it looks like. He and his crew, […]
An American In Paris: La Peg Revisited
When the server told me the special for the night was a plate of snails packed with herb butter, I didn’t get them, because snails […]
The Stupid Joy of Simple Things: Clarkville Reviewed
The thing that matters most about Clarkville is where it lives. It’s a pizza restaurant with good beer, a single solid pasta, and a short, […]
Smooth Jazz and Skate Wing: 26 North Reviewed
The 1990s were a bad time for the American restaurant scene. We were, as an emerging culinary entity, in our first youth—like awful (if precocious) […]
Blood and Gingham: Urban Farmer Reviewed
By my own estimate, I consumed 13 billion calories at Urban Farmer the last time I was there. Maybe 13 and a half. I’m not […]
Eating the Hand Grenade: El Rincon Criollo Reviewed
In a sane, just and rational world, all I would have to say is that El Rincon Criollo has fried mashed potato balls on its […]
A Small World After All: Tredici Enoteca Reviewed
From the outside, the light spilling from Tredici’s windows was cool and white, and the glass appeared to be sweating. We could see the crowd—at […]