Best of Philly

KPOD

The roasted sweet potato, at first glance, appears miscategorized on Peter Serpico’s menu. Perhaps you are a side that’s lost its way, you say — to the potato, to yourself. But you order it — you can’t not order the dessert potato — and it arrives, bathed in brown butter, drizzled in honey, topped with gently melting vanilla ice cream. You taste it, all hot and cold and sweet and savory. And then it hits you: The potato was never lost; it was you.

3636 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104; kpodrestaurant.com/