Where to Travel Spring 2014:
Waterfront Getaways in the U.S.A.

This southern Rhode Island region has the ocean,
huge ponds, and lots for food lovers.

Vibe: There’s the moody Atlantic, of course, which laps up against this rocky Rhode Island shoreline, but there are also saltwater ponds edged by feathery reeds, a river that curves through town, and lakes. Between all that water? Weatherworn beach bungalows and blue-blood mansions fresh from open windows, Main Streets with ice-cream shops and clam shacks, and regulars who wouldn’t change a thing about their low-key seasonal hamlet.

New England’s renovated Weekapaug Inn

Stay: Sure, it’s an “inn” that sits on a “pond,” but don’t get swayed by syntax; the Weekapaug Inn is a large lodge, recently renovated to evoke its original 1930s elegance with stone patios, fluffy king-size beds, bright rooms, and a welcome absence of TVs and screens. It sits on the Quonochontaug Pond, a sapphire-blue body of water that’s miles long and feeds into the Atlantic. Parlor and lawn games, familiar service and rowboats earn Weekapaug its homey rep. In-season rates start at $380 per night. 401-322-0301.

Eat: For all the inn’s nods to yesterday, there’s a distinctly modern flair at the Restaurant, the simply named eatery open to locals and guests. Young executive chef Jennifer Backman creates contemporary plates from foods she sources locally. The oysters come from only miles away, and the aromatic herbs that crust the Atlantic cod are from a garden on-site. The Weekapaug’s sister property, nearby Ocean House, has an upscale farm-to-table restaurant called Seasons with an equally delicious view of the Atlantic. Or go west toward Watch Hill to the St. Clair Annex—you can grab a quick bowl of chowder; everyone else will be in line for the ice cream.

Be a tourist: The Ocean House is a de facto culinary center—learn all about local cheese and wine pairings in a class taught by the hotel’s food forager, or snag a seat at a cocktail class hosted by the house mixologist. Back at the inn, the resident naturalist, Mark Bullinger, will take you bird-watching, plot out a kayaking tour, organize a clambake, or, from the back porch, point out constellations in the star-blazed sky.

Be a local: It’s been around since the 1870s, so the Flying Horse Carousel is a rite of passage for locals. This quiet locale has a ton of arts—there’s an outdoor Shakespeare festival, the Summer Pops, and the Salt Marsh Opera, which performs alfresco during the summer.

Water time: On the pond, you’ll find too many activities to count, from kayaking to stand-up paddleboards to a simple rowboat with a fishing rod. A quick stroll along the property leads to Weekapaug’s new oceanside bathhouse, an open-air facility with changing rooms, food, drink, and an entrance to two miles of private beach, complete with a view of Block Island. At the Ocean House, the 12,000-square-foot OH! Spa has a two-lane lap pool (and life-altering treatments).

Another option: Try the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island, a sweet dot of car-free land on Lake Huron in Michigan. —Josh Middleton

Vacation Within a Vacation
Ten miles off the coast of Rhode Island,
Block Island is a worthy half-day adventure.

A high-speed catamaran will ferry you to Block Island in 30 minutes. Once there, rent a bike or moped—the flat paths that run along the shore and through the towns are a great way to explore this tiny, quiet Rockwellian isle. If you like to hike, seek out the Clay Head Preserve, 190 private acres with trails that wind you past farms, through swamps, up bluffs and down to the sea. At sunset, the Oar restaurant, overlooking the harbor, is the Parc of Block Island, and the perfect gathering place for a pre-ferry cocktail.

Next: In Search of… Old School Family Memories