The 5 Best Handmade Pastas to Try in Philly Right Now
From smoked herring spaghetti to a not-to-be-missed shape that translates as “rooster's crest.”
Handmade pasta shown clockwise from top left: Pasta Lab, Andiario, Cry Baby Pasta, Friday Saturday Sunday, and Res Ipsa Cafe. Photograph by Ian Shiver
Because every single menu in town now features handmade agnolotti and every restaurant kitchen now rocks its own extruder, here are the brightest pasta stars in Philly’s a mano revolution.
Pasta to Cook at Home: Garganelli from Pasta Lab
Restaurant-quality agnolotti, lumache and garganelli, made from farm eggs and local fresh-milled whole grains, to have on an average harried Wednesday night. Who needs you, Marc Vetri? Various farmers’ markets.
Pasta Shape: Creste di gallo at Andiario
The Italian “creste di gallo” translates to “rooster’s crest.” Maybe you’ve had them before (they often look like elbow macaroni with curly mohawks), but we promise, pasta god Anthony Andiario’s are different — handmade, stuffed with all things local and seasonal, both wild and elegant. 106 West Gay Street, West Chester.
Stuffed Pasta: Tortellini en brodo at Cry Baby Pasta
Folded pouches of pork and cheese (the pasta so delicate that you can see through it) swimming in an intense pork and chicken broth. It’s easily the most comforting dish in Philly. 627 South 3rd Street, Queen Village.
Spaghetti: Smoked herring spaghetti at Friday Saturday Sunday
Chad Williams and his sous- chef, Sashia Lariano, like to break rules by combining unexpected ingredients, with surprisingly delicious results. Case in point: these expert noodles, which only get better with a sauce of briny smoked fish (for depth), crab (for sweetness), chili (for heat), and anise seed (to perk it all up). 261 South 21st Street, Rittenhouse.
Gnocchi: Gnocchi sardi at Res Ipsa Cafe
There is literally no difference between Michael Vincent Ferreri’s gnocchi sardi (longish nubs of pasta in a chunky sauce of eggplant, tomato and chili) and the gnocchi sardi you’ll eat in southern Italy. 2218 Walnut Street, Center City.
Published as “Let’s Roll” in the August 2019 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
