Dispatches From Dave: Ooka Sushi in Montgomeryville

Newly opened Ooka Sushi, a modern, ambitious 210–seater improbably located in a renovated Blockbuster Video on a busy stretch of Route 309, is the fourth venture from brothers Lenny and Benny Huang. The brothers have been quietly raising the suburban sushi bar — hiring Morimoto chef Shuji Hiyakawa and bringing on two Center City wine veterans (Michael Wirzberger and Sky Strouth) to develop a sushi–friendly wine and cocktails list. Highlight of this meal: superb sashimi — kanpachi, aji, and Japanese red snapper.