Three Bells In Bucks

Craig LaBan finds a winner in Bucks County’s Rouget, an ambitious French BYOB.

Few young cooks hold on to and evolve the canon of culinary school classics with quite as much fervor as Held, who recasts them with a light but artful touch. His beef “a la mode” is a rarely seen paragon of throwback bistro goodness. The thick slice of French pot roast made from flatiron steak is braised to a melting softness, dabbed with horseradish, scattered with asparagus tips, and set beside a creamy gratin stack of shaved root vegetables.

3 Bells – Excellent

Rouget [Philadelphia Inquirer]