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Critic's Notebook: Where I’m Eating
Joy Manning reviews the Indian food restaurant Ekta, from the former executive chef of Tiffin.
By Joy Manning
- Onion bhaji courtesy of wikimedia.org
I was excited to hear that Raju Bhattarai, a former executive chef at Tiffin, was opening his own restaurant, Ekta. I drove off to Fishtown expecting something like a Tiffin II, but unlike Tiffin’s small but comfortable dining room and recent second-floor addition, was disappointed to find a sparse, un-air conditioned storefront with only two cramped tables for diners.
My advice: Get takeout. (Don’t eat in like I did; you’ll definitely be more comfortable at home.) The food is solid, although the dishes I sampled were less delicious than their Tiffin counterparts. I recommend the onion bhaji ($2.25) and the spicy masaladar chola (chickpeas stewed with onion, tomato, pomegranate and roasted cumin for $6.50). Portions are generous. I was eating leftovers three days later.
My advice: Get takeout. (Don’t eat in like I did; you’ll definitely be more comfortable at home.) The food is solid, although the dishes I sampled were less delicious than their Tiffin counterparts. I recommend the onion bhaji ($2.25) and the spicy masaladar chola (chickpeas stewed with onion, tomato, pomegranate and roasted cumin for $6.50). Portions are generous. I was eating leftovers three days later.
Originally published in Philadelphia magazine, August 2008
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