Prosecco is the name of a white grape and, more deliciously, the light-bodied Italian sparkling wine made from it. Brighter and fresher in style than rich, toasty French champagne, this slightly sweet, fruit-forward sparkler makes a brilliant aperitif or a perfect partner for canapés and simply prepared summer produce. Among proseccos, Villa Sandi’s Prosecco di Valdobbiadene ($9.99) represents a terrific value. As crisp and refreshing as biting into a green apple, this low-alcohol bubbly is a great choice for afternoon picnics.

Back in the April issue, I sang the praises of The Ugly American on Front Street. I recently revisited the place, and I’m happy to report that while the menu has changed significantly, the food is every bit as good as it was back when I paid my initial visits.

I sampled several new items, including duck nachos with black beans and a spicy chili sauce; a trout sandwich with cucumbers and remoulade on house-baked black bread; and a salad of frisée, sautéed wild mushrooms, a poached egg, creamer potatoes and a lemony truffle vinaigrette. I was disappointed to see that the apple pie and cheddar ice cream I loved before was no longer on the menu, but the in-season blueberry buckle with house-made vanilla ice cream was an equally delicious dessert.

Image, Beef on Wick. Photography by Jason Varney

When I go out on a reviewing meal, I strive to keep the situation favorable for accurate tasting and observing. I bring a companion who will follow my ordering instructions. I steer my server to the table that offers the best view of the operation. I eavesdrop on my fellow diners to gauge the crowd. And I sniff, a lot.

Because, as anyone who has ever tried to enjoy food with a stuffy nose knows, smell is 90 percent of taste. Aroma and flavor are inextricably linked. Nothing throws a bigger roadblock up during a review meal more than a nearby diner reeking of perfume or cologne. Diners are asked to follow some rules with regard to smoking and dress codes. Why not a fragrance ban as well?

The tongue-in-cheek “House Etiquette” section on the menu at Midtown Village’s Apothecary playfully remonstrates patrons whose perfumes and colognes interfere with other guests’ olfactory experience. But it’s a suggestion diners should take seriously. For the sake of your meal and mine, I beg you, refrain from fragrance when dining out. It’s enough to make garlic mashed potatoes taste like they’ve been seasoned with rosewater.

Lassi, a cool Southeast Asian beverage based on yogurt and often enhanced with sugar, salt, fruit purée or spices, is almost as good as a milkshake for a chill-down during summer heat waves.

You can find lassis at Indian restaurants or markets. Some of my local favorites include Tiffin’s sweet lassi, a tall drink of sweetened (but still tart) yogurt, and Bindi’s cool and tropical mango lassi. But the best selection of lassis is at Nanee’s Kitchen, an Indian-Pakistani restaurant stall at Reading Terminal Market with a refrigerator full of the cool yogurt shakes in unusual flavors like rose and cardamom.

Image, wikimedia

Distrito, the latest venture from chef Jose Garces — of Amada and Tinto tapas fame — opens today. Can’t get a seat in the custom VW Beetle that promises to be the restaurant’s top table? Try Garces’ recipe for esquites, a Mexican corn dish that Garces serves with tacos, at home.

1 medium Spanish onion, diced small
1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter
8 c. corn kernels, cut off the cob (Reserve cobs for corn stock)
4 c. corn stock (See recipe below)
Kosher salt, to taste
4 sprigs epazote, chopped finely
I cup queso fresco
1/2 cup lime mayonnaise (See recipe below)

Over low heat, sweat onions in butter until very soft, about 8 minutes. Add corn kernels and continue to cook over low heat until soft, about 15 minutes. Add corn stock and simmer on low heat for about 20 minutes, leaving some liquid. Season with salt. Fold in epazote. Serve warm in large bowl. Top with a light layer of lime mayonnaise and crumbled queso fresco. Serves 8.

Corn Stock
1 medium Spanish onion, sliced thin
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tbsp. olive oil
6 corn cobs, kernels removed
4 quarts water
Kosher salt, to taste

Over low heat, sweat onions and garlic in olive oil until very soft, about 8 minutes. Add corn cobs and water and cook over low heat for 1 hour. Strain to remove cobs and onion, and season stock with salt. Yields 4 quarts.

Lime Mayonnaise
1 c. mayonnaise
1/8 c. lime juice
Kosher salt, to taste

Combine mayonnaise and lime juice and mix well. Season with salt. Yields 1 cup.

Iron Hill Brewery brings New England to Philly with a classic lobster bake. All summer long, $24.95 gets you over a pound of Maine lobster, littleneck clams, Prince Edward Island mussels, steamed fingerling potatoes, corn on the cob, and enough butter to bathe it all in. (For diners with more dainty appetites, they also offer a half lobster bake). Looking for a way to wash down your lavish meal? Iron Hill recommends pairing the meal with a seasonal ale, like their house-brewed hefeweizen or their refreshingly-light Belgian wit. So, kick back and enjoy a taste of Maine — without the eight-hour car ride. — Liz Behler

Image, Iron Hill Brewery

The Rhône valley — located between Lyons and Marseilles — is the source of some of the best value reds in all of France. Here, modest blends like côtes-du-rhône are built on a sturdy base of grenache grapes (known for meaty wines with strawberry and white pepper aromas) and a healthy dose of syrah grapes (which add depth and complexity, color and smoky spice). And the same is true for this lesser-known Rhône appellation, the côtes-du-ventoux.

Roughly two parts grenache to one part syrah, Domaine de Fondreche’s O’Sud Coutes-du-Ventoux (available for $10.99 at local Wine & Spirits shops) delivers the layered flavor and lingering finish of a wine twice its price. Try this beauty with grilled meats and Mediterranean appetizers, like lamb kabobs or a simple bowl of olives.

Consider the tortilla. It’s a simple combination of masa (lime-treated corn flour) and water, yet few restaurants — and even fewer home cooks — make these flatbreads fresh. We opt for convenience: preservative-laden disks packed in plastic sleeves hold our tacos and enchiladas. Ever since sampling made-to-order tortillas at La Lupe in South Philly, every other specimen has come up short. And whenever I make tacos at home, I lament using packaged tortillas every time.

So yesterday, I took the plunge. A little research revealed that Rick Bayless (cookbook author and all-around Master of Mexican) recommends a simple cast-iron press for turning out tortillas. I called Fante’s, Foster’s, Williams-Sonoma and Amy’s Place in Reading Terminal. None carried the cast-iron version. A stroll down the south-of-Washington stretch of 9th Street offered plenty of cast-iron presses, all priced under $15. I picked up mine, along with an array of dried and fresh chiles, at Mi Pueblito, just off the market at 11th Street and East Passyunk. The results? Not exactly up to La Lupe standards, but close.

Image, wikimedia.com

I’m a food fan if not a sports fan, so I was excited to get my first (belated) taste of Citizens Bank Park this Saturday. I sampled a frosty cup of sweet-tart lemon ice from Philadelphia Water Ice, Tony Luke’s famous roast pork with provolone and greens, a cheesesteak from Rick’s, and crab fries from Chickie’s & Pete’s.

The fries were less crisp and seasoned than what you’d get in the restaurant, but Tony Luke’s roast pork sandwich delivered all the garlicky goodness I expected. The Phillies? Well, they lost. At least the ballpark offers craft brews like Victory and Flying Fish to ease the agony of defeat.

Image, rickssteaks.com

There are so many ways gazpacho can go wrong. Summer’s most refreshing, cold soup is usually based on tomatoes and cucumbers, but it’s often made unpalatable with additions like too-salty tomato juice or mushy summer vegetables. Luckily, Rae’s unconventional white gazpacho evades all the pitfalls. Chef Daniel Stern bases his chilled soup on light tomato water and puréed cauliflower, and serves it alongside a salad of thin strands of celery root, plump strips of tomato and bite-size pieces of cauliflower. It’s better than air conditioning on a sticky summer day.